These are my expanded notes on my trip to Japan, descending on Daniel for 10 days to visit him & to see what he really does and how his life is in Japan. He was a very good sport. Except for our two nights in Kyoto, Daniel put me up in his apartment; he also was my Japanese speaking tour guide for all but two days when he had to be at school. So here goes:

Day 0: Sunday/Monday March 19/20 (crossed the date line and lost a day)
Ray Six gave me a ride to SFO, which in the end was very good, since I couldn't have left the Jetta at the airport parking with flat tire. Checked in my roll-behind bag (med/large?) (from Main Street Singers trip to Eastern Europe in 1997) and carried backpack with essentials plus small duffel for newspapers, etc. Flew SFO to KIX, 12 hour flight, plane backed & rows tightly spaced, B777 very noisy behind wing. Dinner & a movie (Walk the Line), rest times, reading; alert once we crossed Japan coastline, north of Tokyo, south of Nagoya, around the peninsula, and into Kansai at hazy sunset. No problems through immigration & customs; found "Green Window" for JR (Japan Rail) ticket window; got agent to write train arrival/departure times on tickets. Called Daniel using Kei Befu's phone card. No problem connection at Shin-Osaka (same platform) & arrive 10 pm JST in Takefu, where Daniel met me. I noticed that Japanese on the train (and elsewhere) did not take/make cell phone calls on the train (in public places) but stepped outside, i.e., between the cars, for their calls. O if only Americans were so polite! Cold, rainy. Drove to Daniel's apartment (cold): burned out, dazed, and confused.

Notes on Daniel's apartment: This is on ground floor and has two "big" rooms of ~10'-14', one the bedroom with some closets space and the other the living room with huge TV, couch, chair, computer table, and kitchen, entry, WC, and bathroom (tub, sink, shower in same room with drain in the floor). Single pane windows, which were always weeping. Pretty cold: see one's breathe in the morning. Kerosene heater is quite effective and not too smelly if shoji screens (not painted rice paper - probably plastic or fiberglass) are shut to other rooms. Hot & cold water; hot is probably demand hot water. Daniel pays all utilities. Free wireless Internet at home; Ethernet connection at work/school. Assigned easy parking for huge people carrier. Rice fields (mini-lakes on arrival) from there to the hills. Takefu-Fukui area is in a wide, flat, river plain with hills/low mountains all around except at river exit/port of Fukui.

Day 1: Tuesday March 21 (National Vernal Equinox holiday)
Hot oatmeal & raisins I brought; exchanged paperwork, including income taxes: signed. Walked across rice fields to hills and small dam and lake, good for fishing. No rain but overcast; snow along margins and in woods around lake on walk. Returned for Joseph's phone call; checked e-mail. Went to Omushi-cho park with water fall (spout) into koi filled pond and snow filled park, which stopped progress up the road/trail. No bears in the bear trap. Drove road to Echizen-cho & stopped at pottery village at Miyakazi, now part of Echizen-cho. Visited it's auditorium with display of modern pottery, a garden tea house in the complex for traditional tea and then Fukui Pottery Museum with interesting very old to modern pottery (Echizen ware dates from c1200; this dates 16th century - signature old 1 m tall 2-handled large pot which fell over during (underground) firing). Then lunch for oroshi style soba (Fukui is FAMOUS for its soba [buckwheat noodles]! "Only people who eat Echizen Oroshisoba can experience the delicious harmony of fragrant noodles and spicy grated radish!" But then Fukui is also FAMOUS for its rice: "Fukui is the origin of Koshihikari, a kind of rice that is now popular all over Japan."). Thence we drove to Tsurugi Shrine - all shrines are Shinto - in Ota (part of Echizen-cho and locus of the JHS at which Daniel will spend nearly half his time next contract year) & wandered around. A priest was blessing some couple's car; they were in the building perhaps also having evil spirits removed. Then took northern road to find noted narcissus gardens but ended up in hotel (Suisenso), where we watched the last of the 9th inning of the World Baseball Championship to see Japan beat Cuba. Excitement! Stopped at view spots & a narcissus visitor center (including herb garden of familiar plants), where we discovered their narcissus is quite pleasantly fragrant. Echizen is FAMOUS for its narcissus! ("The fields of narcissus appear on the steep slope bordering the Echizen Kaigan (Echizen coast) during Winter.") Then went down to the coast of Sea of Japan and south, stopping to explore and climb on the rocky coast, ending finally in "downtown" Echizen-cho along the docks and a beach for walk. Finally drove back "home" passing near the Echizen Junior High School. Our evening was out with Echizen International Association with some other JETs to make and eat sushi: not exactly traditional: California and Philadelphia rolls. Still I made rolled sushi for the first time and had it for dinner. Home late (10 pm).

Day 2: Wednesday March 22
This was school day for both of us; dressed in black suit, dress blue shirt & tie, sweater, black socks & shoes, wool cap, and gloves. Foggy start to day, clearing, but rain getting home. Drove to Echizen JHS, parked in teacher parking, in through teacher entrance, changed into Daniel's spare slippers/sandals, and met staff: principal Kocho-sensei, vice principal Kyoto-sensei, English teachers Mina-sensei and Iwasaki-sensei plus student teacher Shirasaki-sensei. Kyoto took our pictures later in/in front of the school. Tour of school in period 1; student body much smaller than it once was (empty rooms). Period 2 split between visiting 2 English classes: 2nd grade & 1st grade; I was to describe my history, job, and other activities and student to answer teacher's questions and ask me some in return. Daniel said I talked at too high a level in first class (2nd grade). Period 3: went to gym for basketball tournament; it was COLD. Period 4 worked in teacher room on PAFM Minutes, etc., discussed Kyoto plans, etc. (Daniel helped Mina with English lesson on The Pyramid of King Kufu.) We had lunch in the teachers' lunch room; good lunch but too big for me (soup/stew with meat, piece of fish, rice, tea salad, veggie, rice sweet); Kyoto commented that I used chop sticks well, so talked of Honolulu heritage and training. School cleaning period: students and staff clean. Period 5: 1st grade English class where the kids asked (were prepped to) several questions. Period 6: back to gym for more cold. VP & P let us go home early; rain. We returned phone left by one of the JETs the night before in the car. I crashed without dinner, probably doing too much too soon (or just second day is the worst for me). My visit wore Daniel out too. Better night's sleep. The day was again often 3-6°C.

Day 3: Thursday March 23 (vacation day)
Slept a little later, got the kerosene heat turned on for cold dad, talked, used computer, dressed, and left for breakfast with Mitsuko (Daniel's Japanese teacher) & excursions on partly/mostly cloudy day with some improving and blue sky and warmer temperatures to a high of 12°C. First was very nice big breakfast with Mitsuko at her house: sausage, chicken, juice, pancake, salad, bun, crab salad, etc., all with pleasant interesting conversation. (She called to figure out the strange phone call Daniel got at 8 am - to deliver his passport and China Visa; arranged to deliver it to his school next day.) Mitsuko gave us a good English map of Fukui-ken to use; it was very helpful! See photo and PDF. (1) Drove up north on Rte 8 and out to Eiheiji Temple (temple of eternal peace) c1244, a very big Zen Buddhist compound (then again, later temples seemed even huge'r). Daniel asked for and we got English guide pamphlet and quick access by monks. Toured all the rooms and outside, took pictures. It is in snowy canyon with streams & water falls. Most interesting was being able to watch & hear "memorial" service/chant in action (Shidoden [Memorial Service Hall]): much droning by monks reading from book, movement, & bowing. This added much to quieting those present and added much to our enjoyment. (2) We followed signs (English) to Maruoka Castle, the oldest castle in Japan, also known as Kasumigajo. We bought ice cream cones and went up path and path (up the wrong way in the end, accidentally bypassing the admission window). It is built on hill with rock faces/walls, lower level garden with very old cherry trees, etc., and 3-story castle at top level. Build c1576; no ancient artifacts; wooden beams ~2'x2', very steep stairs (rope helper) which we climbed to both upper and top level. (American litigiousness would never allow such exploration in the US!) (3) We drove to Tojinbo (spelled variously), a point of land marked by volcanic (basaltic) palisades with overlook out to Sea of Japan & reported haunted island with Shinto shrine; parked at observation tower until late. Walked/climbed down on paths/rocks and then took pathway to the footbridge to island, nearly 2 mi. Crossed the orange bridge over shallow water and made two circuits of halves of island, by light house, shrine, mud, overlooks, etc. Returning to car as sun began to set, we felt we'd had a good workout walking. (4) Drove home via toll road 6-7:30 pm; toll depends on size/weight of car (color of license plate), and Daniel's is the more expensive. Got inexpensive gas (¥115/liter). Went to dinner planned for previous night (okonomiyaki) and cooked our own ~ pancake-like mixture on the griddle in the table. I had combo shrimp/octopus/squid. Everything was interesting and good in Japan. Home and to bed.

Day 4: Friday March 24 (Daniel: school year closes)
Up early since Daniel was going to school for closing day, so I made oatmeal & tea. After he left, I did some Internet and washed all dishes, scrubbed pots, counter, sink, and cleaned. Later I reorganized my suitcase to get it out of the way. Dressed and headed of to the Post Office to meet Mitsuko; she was 5 min early and met me at the turn onto the main street. Drove and talked on way to gardens out towards Imadate (Echizen Nosatoajimano Park): Japanese garden with notable former farmer's house (thatched roof), tatami rooms, family altar, slightly raised room for any visiting overlords, cook stove, tools, silk growing loft, etc. - all under repair because of recent heavy snow and severe winter. Walked through gardens, still sparse for spring, to two hillocks with stones on which poems were engraved, around a pond, and around pathway up through marshy terraces with recently replanted "skunk cabbage" (but not Maine type) and electric fence to keep out the "bo" (boar) who had eaten all the plants up, hence stopped before the path to hilltop. Around to museum where ebullient docent (we the only visitors in the park, but lots of gardeners, etc.) who described museum (Takaoka Manyou Historical Museum: see http://www.city.echizen.lg.jp/hp/manyou/), viz. (all in Japanese, translated by Mitsuko) a young couple c750 married in Kyoto, she member of imperial court (hence mistress), he low ranking army -- all for true love. So emperor sent him to Takefu to be stationed there for life. The exchanged love poems: 40 of his and 23 of hers preserved in imperial archives, these on display with limited diorama. Pair of poems are on those stones. Thence over concrete slabs over pond (lotus flower not yet growing) to Takefu Knife Factory (Takefu is FAMOUS for its knives!), where we toured ourselves and watched blades of layers being forged and others shaped and sharpened. Nice display of handsome knives. Upstairs is shrine for workers to visit daily to avoid cuts, smashes, etc. (Probably http://www.chuokai-fukui.or.jp/~tkv/.) Thence to nursery and small botanical garden and then back to car to leave for lunch & paper doll place. No glasses! My new distance glasses were gone, having been tucked into shirt pocket inside jacket somewhere along the line. So the next hour was spent retracing steps twice, talking to museum docent, leaving her card, etc. No joy; then remembered to retrace from farmer house to nursery to knives to museum, and there they were, on the stepping stones over the lotus pond. Out of time, back to Takefu, parked at Mitsuko's afternoon knitting class (as teacher), and lunch at Rag Time for box lunch. I gave her 2 omiyage back at the garden. To International Ass'n center while it cooked, there to stay during her class thence for lunch (rather good); she left for class. I walked (1) to FAMOUS Takefu shrine, (2) via Takefu City Hall to JR trains station, and (3) Intern'l center to use computer & read. There Daniel arrived early from school (let out early with warning not to have car accident, as he officially was at school); found Mitsuko w/note we were leaving. To home; messed around, talked; and watched strange movie "Pi" (π) perhaps about genius. Kat called (JET up north) left no purse & had to get off tollway; Daniel rescued & parked car at apt; made vegetable soup which was pretty good. Tired out.

Day 5: Saturday March 25 (Kanazawa)
Up early for big day to Kanazawa, north in next prefecture (Ishiwara = stone river). Daniel felt anxious having fretted over schedules and arrangements, especially for Saturday through Tuesday, so reminder that anything would be wonderful, new, and exciting. Up the toll motorway Takefu, Fukui, & beyond north, getting off at Kanazawa (nishi exit), then following signs to where we were going and the parking garage near Kenroku-en Gardens (Kanazawa is probably FAMOUS for the gardens) and Kanazawa Castle across the street. Spent some good time in gardens, avoided nearly all tour groups (leaders with colored flags) except when returning later to signature Kotojitoro lantern by pond. Oldest fountain in Japan (Funsui). Balance and feel was excellent, with hills, old tress (all pruned severely and propped up with poles and cables), old trees, rocks, & streams. Impressive pruning and mechanical supports on old trees. Found the Japanese Plum Grove garden; flowering plums from all over Japan; photographers examining these first striking flowers of spring. (Cherry trees with buds yet weeks away.) A water fountain! rarity. Also went through Seison-kaku Villa, 13th lord Kaga clan 1863 historic house (end of Tokugawa shogunate): elegant; interesting screens, furnishings, etc. Thence walked to Information Center, which did not exist, but got information at garden entrance how to get to Myoryuji Buddhist Temple ("ninja") as we needed to make the 2 pm appointment tour. So across footbridge to castle. Explored a good deal of the castle - with white lead roof. Concealed archery defenses (paper holes masked as stone on outside); saw 3 types of wall (tight/finished to rough large/small stones), water works, ramparts, an overlook (4th level stone wall/terrace up at the corner), several storehouses, through woods all labeled. Then back to the garden street for ice cream and bottled tea, to shed some outer clothes, and then decided to take taxi to temple to ensure arrival on time. Taxi driver, although expensive, was very thorough and helpful. This Buddhist temple (Myoryuji) built as 2 story building (Imperial limit) to be secure against attack and to be outpost for security of Kanazawa built on 7 levels, 23 rooms, and 29 staircases! Also called Ninja-Dera but isn't ninja at all. Secret escapes (incl. well), hiding places, traps, ways to lance attackers though rice paper risers on stairs, etc. Optical illusion ceiling, elaborate sill locks, and an entry-only room (seppuku) if all is lost: 4 tatami for hara kiri (words for 4 and death are the same). Excellent! Better than Daniel hoped for since there was English pamphlet and English 3-ring binder of information/pictures to take on the guided tour to help. 1 hr tour. Excellently maintained. So we found the tourist loop bus at stop 13 and went to 16, then walked at length through high class neighborhood (Nagamachi district) and found at samurai house (Nomura family) in a walled compound of house and garden. Fantastic little garden! rated 3rd in all Japan (Kobori Enshu style) - there to sit awhile: water falls, stream, lanterns, koi, pines, maples - all in perfect harmony. Museum room display of Edo period coins, swords/scabbards. Then walked back to the car via Prefectural Museum of Traditional [Japanese] Products [arts] & Crafts at 4 pm (in Kenrokuen Gardens) - mostly modern, of some interest, displaying lacquer ware, pottery, materials, Japanese paper umbrellas & lanterns, etc. Excellent collection, but we were tired. Got car and found our way to the Omicho Market with fresh goods/fish stands & found small restaurant (US) (rather expensive) to share a very nice tempura dinner of tea, miso soup, rice, etc. Thence departed for home after very full wonder filled day; a bit tired. (Akira Jindo called Daniel on cell phone at diner; he had got messages of change of plans; arrangement to meet set.) (JET Doug came to borrow Daniel's backpack for trip to Thailand - without leaving Japan.) To bed ~ 9:30 pm, deciding no need to get up early for earliest train to Kyoto, otherwise we'd be over tired and burned out, limiting enjoyment of the days and explorations. Wisely done.

Day 6: Sunday March 26 (Kyoto)
Up around 7 am; did morning exercises (missed on some days); made oatmeal etc.; I washed dishes & scrubbed pots. We packed lightly & left just in time for 9:19 am train. (Daniel found & figured out a parking lot which reportedly would be free: it was after getting the ticket when buying train tickets & exchanging it for token upon return!) Train was fine (warm); I wrote & read some; Daniel read. Arrived at Kyoto station with backpacks on; walked to very top (garden) to view city and new station; got good maps at info center; took subway(s) to arrive at first stop: Nijo-jo (Nimomaru Palace). Rented the English audio guide - a good idea/good informative recordings. Moderately crowded with tourists (various types); picture of us by Germans. Excellent architecture; gardens not so green or impressive (formal) as Kanazawa -- just different (less dense). Toured Nijo Castle interior; audio explained shogunate, how meetings, administration, & messengers were received (good diorama). As always, walked in guest slippers meant for small feet. Nightingale floors (Uguisu-bari): wood floors built intentionally to squeak to reveal intruders, esp. at night: lots of squeaking. Then walked the gardens (main path), stopping for tea ceremony (short form - tea made out of sight, but only formal tea ceremony of the week). Honmaru Palace was not open. Thence bus to Rokuon-ji Temple (remember Temple means Buddhist), locus of Golden Pavilion. This was a bit less impressive than hyped but quite nice/impressive. Outside only across the pond/lake and pathways. Tours! including Hawaiian tour group; crowds compared to what we usually did. Still, we paused, let groups go on, looked around, and found beauty, serenity, and tranquillity suitable for First Day Quaker worship. By the oldest unburned building. Interesting roofs. Leaving Rokuon-ji, backpacks on, for the long walk to Ryoanji Temple (Zen). Ryoan-ji is noted for it's 15-rock garden in raked white sand/gravel, but it is neither the only temple with similar style gardens nor limited only to that one garden. Still, we lingered at the rock garden to understand it and found tranquillity and another measure of worship for First Day. Here there were "usual route" signs; we always went the unusual long way around, going everywhere slowly, observing gardens, buildings, and feel of the temple grounds. (Thus this was not "run see the rocks and get back on the bus to the next stop" sort of visit, and we actually remember the day and visit to that temple.) It getting late (just after 4 pm), we walked to what would be open still: we walked to Myoshin-ji temple on way to our guest inn. This was a long walk, but as with all our long walks through the city (Kyoto but also Kanazawa), we were able to see and understand the regular setting of normal people living and working there. We walked and walked but missed the temple - by probably 1 block. Shucks! Then again, we might have been temple'd out had we found it and been too tired. Found a bus going by our guest inn but overshot the mark, ending up at Kyoto Station. So followed the directions for there to the right stop and found Guest Inn Kyoto (Japanese style pension). This, booked from Daniel's youth hostel website, gave us an individual room with private bathroom; what more did we need? Proprietor wanted to interest us in various things, which we ignored. (Reservation required Imperial Palace, kabuki, and geishas will wait for another trip.) Went for dinner at local Japanese-style place on the street. Showers and to bed early. Small rice bag for pillow worked, more or less.

Day 7: Monday March 27 (Kyoto)
The proprietor recommended a breakfast café by the bus stop, which worked fine: pastries and real tea. After getting dark glasses & headache cures, we took bus 32 all the way to the Silver Pavilion stop, where we almost went the wrong way. This Ginkaku-ji Temple (Zen, est. 1482 by 8th Muromachi shogunate) was rather nice and calm, especially concentrating on the woods beyond, gardens, and pathways; the feature was crowded with tourists. The silver pavilion (originally Kannonden) in the temple grounds isn't really silver, though that was the original intent (golden bronze phoenix rooftop faces east); it features white gravel sculpted into perfect truncated cone: Mt. Fuji. (All this day's Buddhist temples had white gravel/sand garden with rocks, patterned raked gravel, raised gravel beds, etc. as feature somewhere.) The Fuji was impressive; some crowds; no tour groups. (We also visited Jodo-in, a.k.a. Seitai-san, with Amitabha Buddha, originally 12-15th century right next door - an old temple without tourists w/most parts moved away.) Off we went, straight ahead, along the canal and walkway after deciding a sharp left turn was not the right way (we were wrong) to follow the Philosopher's Pathway, lined with cherry trees (not in bloom). After quite a walk, stopped for refreshment & suspected we were in urban area and not getting to the next temple; inquired; found a bus back to Ginkaku-ji Temple. Then along the correct direction, the real Philosopher's Pathway (Path of Contemplation) with walkway, canal, and more cherry trees (but tourists too), which runs near the edge of the hills and woods, with little shrines and temples all along the way. We stopped in to Otoyo Jinja (Shrine), actually in Daniel's guide book, because it was there where stood a cherry tree just starting to bloom. It was a break from temples: shrines with rodents (2 mice), one with foxes, and one with monkey and a kite (pairs of animals on each side of shrine). Onward towards the end of the pathway, we got to the Eikando Zenrin-ji (Zen Buddhist temple), a rather large complex, as afternoon began. Watched a video and walked around the rather large place. Hiked pathway up to iconic semi-shrouded tower. This temple is the looking backwards Buddha, with story about the student whom Buddha prods onward; the story is well told. Many Buddhas and chapels; lots of stairs; several sand gardens. Saw the Buddha looking backwards. By this time, 2 pm+, and no good lunch spots, so we went beyond the neighboring temple (Nanzenji) and found noodle shop (as did Japanese family of young children) for lunch: quite satisfactory. The ~3 pm back to Nanzen-ji Temple, an enormous compound with huge entry gate (Sanmon; original 1296): 30' 1st story; up and walked around atop on 2nd level. (Had 3 separate rather expensive admissions to pay.) Enjoyed the small old Hojo Garden with sand & rocks as well c1264 and the Emperor Kameyama outdoor garden with dragon island; part of original palace Nanzen-in. (Following French speaking couple with baby here.) This was just beyond Roman Aqueduct, which we went up and walk on: really is aqueduct. Finally to Hojo Hall, noting more ancient screens with tigers (male) and leopards (female) [ancient Japanese misconception]. After we exited this building, they put the closed sign up at 4:30 pm. We decided it best to call it a day. Thus walked to find bus, noting ultrawide railway. No buses on such a major road (Rte 143) but onwards to the boulevard to traffic lights where busses (#202-206) ran, but this was rush hour now: very crowded. Could not get to front of the line to get on bus because those in front could not get on the one they wanted. Finally just Daniel & I got onto a #206: front of line. After 2 buses, we arrived at Kyoto Station and continued on to guest inn. Late supper Chinese restaurant done by Japanese; walked and to bed. The day was not too long or hard, as we did not take backpacks.

Day 8: Tuesday March 28 (Kyoto with Akira Jindo)
So Akira Jindo was going to pick us up at 10 am, so we slept in a little, had breakfast (but no tea; ugh). Daniel's cash running out; need enough for train home. Akira was running a bit late - traffic jam - but arrived only a few minutes after 10; backpacks into trunk and omiyage dried California apricots carefully wrapped for Akira. Akira wanted to take us to some places in Kyoto he thought significant, so drove to NW Kyoto to Koryuji Temple, really a melding of Buddhist and Shinto. May be the first Buddhist temple built in Japan or first sanctioned by Imperial family; it was allowed/commissioned by Crown Prince Shotoku 603 AD as Buddhism arrived in Japan; Shotoku studied Buddhism and found it compatible, so encouraged/allowed Hata family to built this temple. (Hata family tamed/dammed two rivers of Kyoto, making it habitable; hence capital moved from too small Nara to Kyoto.) Prince Shotoku could not take gift statue of Buddha to Imperial palace: Shinto only. Compound was once much bigger, but post-W.W.II separation of church & state and discouragement put temples and shrines on hard times, and they sold off grounds. Torii (gate) is Imperial (family) torii made of unfinished logs. (Info from web: The Koryuji Temple or Uzumasa-dera was founded by Hata Kawakatsu in 622, but the present buildings are later. The Lecture Hall, the second oldest building (1165) in Kyoto, contains three old statues: in the center a seated figure of Buddha, flanked by figures of the Thousand-Handed Kannon and Fukukenjaku-Kannon. In the rear hall (Taishi-do, 1720) is a wooden statue of Shotoku-taishi, probably a self-portrait (606). Also: The gate (torii) marks the gateway between the physical and spiritual worlds and is traditionally made in three pieces, three being a sacred number of the Kami. When entering a shrine, a visitor will clap their hands three times and bow three times to summon the spirits.) Walked to 2 Shinto shrines at former corners of compound; one had 3 post torii over (now dry because of construction) spring/fountain with sunken area for cleansing. (Akira showed us proper Shinto cleansing technique.) 3 post unique/very rare. Shrine with foxes. Main Buddhist temple of Chinese architecture with nearby shrine; museum included inside with many ancient statues of Buddha, 4 "archangels" and other helpers/servants. Two Korean: sitting foot on knee. Akira questioned and instructed us very well. The servant with 42 hands; Akira explained symbols and related spread of Buddhism via Korea and China as well as probable Jewish role in silk trade (Japan imported from China). Temple post kanji for silk trade, music, and dance. Buddha in 3 faces: past, present, & future. All quite impressive, more so with Akira's explanations, knowledge, & understanding along with humor and professorial spirit. He teaches Hebrew, Bible, etc. at Makuya Bible Seminary (once was research physicist) - a school Kei Befu knows about and guessed when I explained to her. From here drove to lunch, perhaps fanciest restaurant we ate at in Japan. Restaurant was on Kamo River (north west Kyoto) and served formal Japanese lunch but in western seating: sashimi, rice, vegetables, sweet, double lacquer box and many lacquer bowls, looked like custard but wasn't, etc. (I failed to write it down). As with everything, we were not allowed to pay anything; Akira was gracious and generous. We talked at lunch of Swarthmore, mutual friends, his experience going there and being there 4 years, etc. Exited through gardens to car thence to see garden at Heian Jingu (too far for a trip to Nara, we decided), but the cold front arrived on us with heavy rain, thunder & lightning, etc., so we diverted to Kyoto Art Museum nearby, and I used my umbrella for first time. Walked through 1 floor only (other closed) mostly paintings, many rather interesting. Akira instructed on various influences, traditions, subjects, etc. on pictures of interest: Buddha shadow and person; two ancient women and girl playing Japanese 3-string banjo; turtles & symbology; fog in mountains, etc. Afterwards, rain had stopped, so we walked to Heian Jingu shrine, the very major shrine honoring the first and last Kyoto emperors with giant red Torii. We skirted all but gardens, walking over to the right rear (eastern) side with some usual and some unusual features. Some cherries were blooming there, including wild cherry and some flowering cherry, Interesting willow cherry arbor, not yet with life. Sun was setting; Japanese crane flew over the ponds. (Crane = 1000 yrs; turtle = 10,000 yrs.) The day was ending, clouds clearing slightly, so walked to shop for tea (we had to whip it up) and ice cream perhaps a bit too fancy. Chatted more; thence to parking garage and to Kyoto Station. Unusual for Japan, we got and gave hugs good-bye. We exchanged cards. We had time for sunset view from top of Kyoto Station, then caught 6:40 pm train, which was very hot, arriving Takefu at 8 pm; got get-out-of-jail-free token for car, and to home. Being chauffeured around in a nice car is much less tiring than taking crowded busses and lots of walking, so we ended the day much less tired after an excellent day. Our Japanese interpreter made a big difference too. Thanks to Akira Jindo!

Day 9: Wednesday March 29
Daniel needed to attend his school's recognition for teachers leaving at the end of the school year (morning) and wanted to go to the corresponding teacher dinner party in the evening. Up at 6:30 am; I made oatmeal; Daniel off to school 7:20 am. I stayed home (reading/computer work/etc.) and went for a walk in the morning. (1) TurboTax 2005 misbehaved; I could not save updates to Daniel's tax file. Tech support also failed. Uninstalled/reinstalled did not help. (2) Dusted the house, cleaned, vacuumed all over. (3) Personal and work e-mail & Internet-based news & weather (still raining at home). (4) Last of the veggie soup for lunch. (5) Walked to post office and around rice fields; just a little snow falling. Daniel got home; the school ordered lunch for him. Went shopping for essential gifts: candy/treats for Taylor dog walker and office plus essential one-toed (for big toe) farmer socks for me (pack of 6, so Daniel got 2 pair). Checked out train schedules for me (Takefu-Kansai) for next day; Daniel doesn't need to come with me - I'll do fine. Daniel got ride to/from party in Echizen-cho. Day getting colder; fired up kerosene heater by evening. (Daniel bummed out by Fukui police calling his school that he must have Japan driver's license when treaty apparently says International Driver's License is good for a year: the down side of Japanese apparent politeness. Aside: Harumi says one really needs to get Japan license as soon as possible.) Daniel home ~11 pm; said I wasn't snoring much. After 4 very busy days for me, a day off was nice.

Day 10: Thursday March 30 (Gained a day crossing International Date Line)
I woke up to snow everywhere. In time we were up and Daniel made omelet, tea, toast, & orange (Japanese oranges are very good - like tangerines). We talked, used computer to check on things & e-mail, I packed, and we were off. Snow everywhere and still snowing; we intended to go to Imadate for the paper factory but decided to reduce anxiety and punt, given the weather, returning to Takefu to cafe for talk & snack. In town, I got to see their snow removal system in action: sprinklers on sidewalks, streets, & parking lots squirting streams of water to melt the snow! (Works fine: Japan has lots of water & temps seldom go below -3°C.) Then to JR train station; Daniel bought my tickets, and with schedules in hand, went to platform after photo of the Takefu knife dragon at the station (they let Daniel come to platform with me to get me on the right train). Snow was everywhere until the long tunnel before Tsuruga; broken clouds & no snow by Kyoto area. Fine views along the way. Train 7 minutes late into Kyoto & Shin-Osaka! So hurried from platform 17 to 11 to connect with Kansai Express Ltd., jumping on the train as they announced it, only going the WRONG WAY! No recourse but to return to end of line at Kyoto thence turn around and get to Kansai airport only 1:20 before flight. This meant no lines, and all was well getting to gate. I called Daniel, exhausted from Dad visit and napping. Good-byes. Took off 5 minutes early so saw area just before sunset; then dinner (discovered Echizen is FAMOUS for its water!) and movie Good Night & Good Luck. I had a beer and melatonin and did fall asleep, but slept sometimes OK, sometimes poorly. Awake 1+ hours before landing and had light breakfast. Same noisy B777, cramped seats, window seat, etc., but ticket was free. The flight was about 40 minutes early; I had no problem with immigration or customs (but had to tell them about the "food" I had, i.e., some candy and "pastry"); my suitcase was among the last out; I caught the Super Shuttle just before it filled up to head south; I was the first to be dropped off; and it cost only $36. Thus home 7 hours before my plane took off. And the whole trip came in under $1,000!

Updated: April 20, 2006 (Created April 14, 2006)